we’d feel the water start to bend and stand up, tugging on our board shorts, and when the wave crested and tossed its full force directly on top of us, we’d push deep and open our eyes and grin at the yawning curl of gold sand and blue ocean that couldn’t touch us.
Kawai Strong Washburn, Sharks in the Time of Saviors
Mark Tacastacas 
You must be logged in to post a comment.